Innovation

For the second HSF challenge I chose a Vionnet dress from the Betty Kirke book. The original is a gorgeous piece that's housed at the Met, but unfortunately poorly photographed on the collections website (see second photo). 

I was so excited to start making dresses from this book, but when I went to start enlarging this one I realized that there was no scale instruction. After a bit of research, I found out that there is a Japanese companion book to this one which accurately scales the patterns and gives better sewing instructions. I didn't have the budget to buy the book, so luckily I was able to find photographs of it that people had uploaded online.

The original is made from silk crepe-back satin, and when I saw some at the fabric store I fell in love... but at $70/yard was a little over budget. I ended up finding a $35/yard version, and saved some money by buying end of the bolt. When it came time to cut the pattern I fell a little bit short and ended up having to buy the closest color match in a regular silk satin to finish the second half of the dress. It's not too noticeable, but you might be able to tell that it's made from two different fabrics in the photos. In the end it became a really expensive, fully finished muslin... but when I save up some money I might buy the dream fabric and make a second one. 

I found the art deco buckle on Ebay. This is my favorite part of the dress - it's really just a big sack that you pull over and cinch with a little buckle that is sewn into the dress. So simple and easy. It's also completely open from the neckline to waist, but there is so much gathering in the front that it somehow is still quite modest. 

I was really rushed for photos so I'm not sure if you can see all the details, but here it is! 

The Challenge: Innovation

Fabric: Silk crepe-back satin, silk satin

Pattern: Pattern 12 from Betty Kirke's Madeleine Vionnet

Year: 1936

Notions: Buckle, Thread

How historically accurate is it? 95%, the fabric is silk and the buckle is from the era, but I'm not sure if the sewing techniques I used are correct. 

Hours to complete: About 40, after three mock ups and lots of hand sewing. 

First worn: Today, for photos!

Total cost: About $125. Far too much considering I'll have to remake it, but maybe I can reuse the fabric for other projects.